Humble Revelry brings its comfort food to new location | Local News | miltonindependent.com

Oct 26, 2024

Co-owners of Humble Revelry Pop Gonyon (left) and Michael Ummarino (right).

MILTON — Humble Revelry, a cherished name in Milton’s culinary scene, has taken a bold leap from its humble beginnings as a mobile food trailer into a fully established brick-and-mortar restaurant.

Nestled in the old Zachary’s Pizza location within the Milton Square Shopping Center at 197 U.S. Route 7, the restaurant now offers a dine-in experience that reflects its commitment to quality, creativity and community engagement.

The transition to a permanent location wasn’t planned, but rather the result of a fortuitous encounter.

“We decided to come over here to eat when it was briefly Milton Food and Fun, and we had known that they were considering selling,” co-owner Pop Gonyon said. “When we walked in the door, it was like, wow, how much is this place? They gave us a tour, and it kind of just stuck in our brain— we could be open year-round because with the food trailer, we couldn’t.”

The leap from a mobile setup to a restaurant brings with it numerous advantages.

“From a food standpoint, we have more space, better equipment, more storage, and one of the best walk-ins I’ve been to in a long time for temperature holding,” Gonyon said.

This improvement in infrastructure has allowed the business to expand its offerings and improve efficiency. Gonyon’s partner, Michael Ummarino, also pointed to the freedom it provides, noting that in their mobile days, customers often faced the unpredictable Vermont weather.

“During the summer, we were at the mercy of the heat and rain. Now, people have a place to come and sit down,” he said.

Moving into a permanent location also came with its fair share of challenges. Ummarino said one of the first hurdles was adapting to new business metrics.

“We didn’t have applicable numbers from the previous restaurant that we could use, and that made the transition difficult,” he said.

Additionally, the building required significant mechanical upgrades, particularly the hood fan, which wasn’t up to code. However, the team found support from Pomerleau Real Estate, which played a key role in helping the two owners settle into their new space.

Despite the struggles, the duo remained focused on their vision. Gonyon emphasized staying true to themselves has been key to their success.

“In this business, if you open a restaurant and do exactly what people want, you might not last long if you’re not happy,” he said. “So, Mike and I decided to do what makes us happy and what we think people will enjoy.”

The “Humble General Store” is a new feature at the restaurant, showcasing work done by local artisans for sale.

While the restaurant has made some changes to its offerings, it has stayed rooted in its core values of quality and creativity. The most notable change is the shift from smoked meats, a staple in their trailer days, to braised meats.

“We decided to stop smoking meat after the move, which was a controversial decision,” Ummarino said with a laugh, “but it ultimately came down to time, labor and health restraints.”

Braising has allowed them to elevate dishes like their macaroni and cheese and Philly cheesesteaks.

“It’s like stepping into a Sunday roast at grandma’s house,” Ummarino added.

Their fries have also become a point of pride.

“We were doing wedges back at the trailer, but now we’re doing hand-cut fries, and they’ve gotten more compliments than we ever expected,” Gonyon said.

The process of making the fries involves grinding and fermentation, aiming to create a crispy exterior with a mashed potato-like center.

“We’re almost there, and they keep getting better week by week,” he added.

Daily specials are still a key feature, with announcements made on Humble Revelry’s social media channels, and take-out options remain available. However, Gonyon and Ummarino are most excited about the future — plans are underway for a general store where customers can purchase take-home meals and special dinners, broadening their reach within the Milton community.

Humble Revelry is more than just a restaurant; it’s a space where community and quality come together. The owners know it's important to stay grounded, a philosophy that’s embedded in their name.

“I remember where I came from, growing up eating Vermont-style cuisine—cheddar cheese, maple syrup, roasts— and that helps keep me centered,” Gonyon said.

But Humble Revelry’s menu is not limited to traditional New England flavors.

Gonyon said he incorporates diverse influences into his dishes, drawing on his lifelong appreciation for global flavors.

“I’ve always had a fondness for diaspora flavors, and I now understand it’s because I’m a diaspora person,” he said.

This blend of local tradition and global inspiration is what sets Humble Revelry apart, offering customers a unique and memorable dining experience.

Ummarino echoed these sentiments from a hospitality perspective. He believes that Humble Revelry is a place where everyone is welcome, no matter their background or beliefs.

“When you walk in here, none of that matters. You’re my neighbor, and I’m going to treat you like that,” he said. “We’ll sit you down, hand you a menu and make you feel welcome. If anyone starts a problem, they have to go.”

As the restaurant grows, both owners are committed to keeping the essence of Humble Revelry intact. Their approach to food remains experimental and forward-thinking, but always with an eye on maintaining high standards. Gonyon describes this as “savant style,” a philosophy of cooking that eschews trends in favor of giving customers the best possible version of a dish they didn’t even know they wanted.

“Every day, we challenge ourselves to get better,” Gonyon explains. “We’re not chasing fickle trends; we’re focused on doing what we do best—creating memories through food.”

With its commitment to quality, community and creativity, Humble Revelry is poised to become a staple in Milton’s dining scene. Whether it’s the perfectly braised meats, the evolving menu or the welcoming atmosphere, customers are sure to leave with a memorable experience—and maybe a newfound appreciation for a different kind of dining.

As Gonyon said, “When people take a bite, and their whole body changes— that’s how you know you’ve done it right.”

Hours of operation:

Tuesday – Saturday: 4:30 p.m. – 8:00 p.m.

Closed on Sundays and Mondays.

Location:

197 U.S. Route 7 in the Milton Square Shopping Center

Bring your own beverage:

Patrons are welcome to bring their own alcoholic beverages to enjoy with their meal. Non-alcoholic options, such as bubbly water and soda, are available at the restaurant.

For more information or to place a takeout order call 802-891-1095.

Written By

Staff Writer

Shannon Gunderson | she/hers | Reporter

Shannon covers local news and events in Milton, VT. Contact her at (802) 448-2068. In her free time, she enjoys wandering local trails and reading books in sunshine.

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